Installing the control wires in the Snoopy's tail

Torstai 2.1.2025 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The experimental aircraft Snoopy, under restoration at The Tuesday Club, retains the wires from the rudder pedals to the rudder and tail wheel. Instead, the elevator wires had disappeared.

We examined the Snoopy’s fuselage to find out how the elevator wires had run. It transpired that the upper wire is attached to the top end of a rocking lever in the tail. Accordingly, the lower wire is attached to the lower end of the rocking lever. So, how to move the elevator? From the photos taken of the Snoopy we noticed a bar from the tail to the underside of the elevator. The other end of this metal bar has been attached to the lower end of the rocking lever, where there are holders both for the wire and the bar. As the wires tilt the rocking lever from side to side, the metal bar moves back and forth, making the elevator move up and down.

At the lower end of the control column the lower elevator wire runs through a pulley in the fuselage and on through a tube in the control column lower end winding around a pulley to the lower end of the control column. Accordingly, the elevator upper wire runs from the rocking lever through a pulley in the fuselage, straight to the lower end of the control column. This way the wire forms a connected wire loop that can be operated from the control column.

Before we started to install the elevator wires, we had to lathe the two missing pulleys in the fuselage that guide the movement of the wires. The bolt holes in the pulley holders were drilled clean, after which the pulleys were installed. Now we could start threading the wires to place.

The wires were tentatively fastened with loops with wire locks to the lower end of the control column and the rocking lever. After it was defined how tight the wires should be, the wire ends were equipped with metal rings or thimbles. The wire was tightened around the thimble and the end of the wire was locked at the stem of the thimble with two pressable wire locks made of aluminium. The thimble headed wires were finally threaded to the holder at the lower part of the control column and the locking loops attached to the rocker lever.

After the elevator wires had been fitted, we constructed the metal rod out of 20 mm metal tube, to move the elevator, and fastened it to lower end of the rocker lever. We further checked the working of the rod by attaching the horizontal stabilizer and elevator to the fuselage of the Snoopy. When we fastened the other end of the rod to the bracket on the lower surface of the elevator, it moved as planned, when pulling and pushing the control column.

A wire connects the rudder pedals both to the rudder and the tail wheel. The wire running towards the tail, forks halfway of the fuselage to wires going to the rudder and the tailwheel. The tailwheel turns simultaneously, when the rudder is turned by the pedals.

We fastened first the right- and left-hand side wire ends to the pedals. After that we attached the ends of the rudder wires, which forked halfway of the fuselage, to the brackets on the lower left-hand and right hand-side corners of the rudder. At the same time we noticed that in front of the rudder, there had been pulleys guiding the wires in the fuselage. All that was left was the holder for the pulleys.

The missing pulleys were lathed and attached in place. Thus the rudder wires had been installed.

It was time to install the tailwheel wires. The left-hand side wire had been linked to the tailwheel by a coiled spring. The right-hand side original wire lacked the coiled spring. When we thought about the problem, we found out that both the wires should have the coiled spring for the rudder to function properly.

We studied photos of the Snoopy. It transpired from them that both the rudder wires did have a coiled spring. Why it lacked from the right-hand wire, will remain a mystery.

We carried on pondering. If the tailwheel wires have coiled springs, they must have counter springs in the pedals. This way the wires between the pedals and the rudder could remain tight and the rudder movements transit to the rudder and tailwheel. Small metal rings were found in the fuselage and rudder pedals. So we bought suitable coiled springs and installed them to the rudder pedals.

We also bought coiled springs for both the tailwheel wires.  So we decided to renew the left-hand side tailwheel coiled spring, in order for both springs to be identical. Before installing the tailwheel wires, we had cleaned the pulleys for the tailwheel wires to be fastened to the tailwheel coiled spring.

At first the coiled springs on both sides were fastened to the brackets in the tailwheel. After this both the wires were attached to the coiled spring with a ring made to the end of the wire. The ring was locked with two wire locks that were pressed around the wire. We still installed, as had been in the original, a backup wire between the brackets and the ends of the wires. The backup wire was threaded through the coil spring. The wire ensures the function of the tailwheel if the coiled spring breaks loose or breaks. We added a turnbuckle to the left-hand side wire of the tailwheel to adjust the tightness.

Thus we had installed to working order all the Snoopy’s control wires in the tail section.
A different story will be the fitting of the aileron wires in the wings.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation to English by Matti Liuskallio.

Painting the propeller of the Snoopy by its painting scheme

Perjantai 20.12.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The damaged Hoffmann Rosenheim propeller, received as a donation, was primed after its repair with bluish-grey Isotrol oil paint. This paint suits for both priming and surface painting. After the priming, putty was still re-applied to some uneven spots, after which the propeller surfaces were thoroughly ground smooth with sandpaper. The grinding dust was wiped off with a rag moistened with Sinol / water solution (50% / 50%).

Now we proceeded to painting the propeller by the original painting scheme as in the Snoopy, documented in photographs of it. The tips of the blades were red, with a narrow white stripe in the bottom edge of the red. The front side of the blades was painted with the same bluish-grey paint as the whole aircraft. The back side of the blades had been painted matt black between the red tip of the blade and the propeller hub, to prevent glare.

Painting the propeller as in the Snoopy painting scheme was started, after grinding the primer, by covering it fully with bluish-grey Isotrol paint. The front side of the blades simultaneously received its final bluish-grey coat of paint. The paint job was done with a brush. Spray painting was considered, but Isotrol gives an extremely even, smooth, plastic-like surface even when applied with a brush.

Next were painted the red propeller tips. Red spray paint was bought, and used for it. The length of the red tip was estimated based on photos of the Snoopy. It was about 1/3 of the distance between the propeller hub and the tip. The tip part was separated with tape, and the rest of the propeller was protected with cardboard for the time of painting. At first, the front sides of the propeller blades were sprayed red. After the paint had dried, the back sides of the propeller blades were sprayed equally.

Because spray paint dries quickly, the back sides of the propeller blades could be painted matt black on the same day. That was also done by spraying it. Again, the length of the matt black area was defined by photos of the Snoopy. The matt black area reaches from the red tip to the edge of the propeller hub, where tape was applied for separating it. Now, both the tips of the propeller blades and the hub area were protected, and the back side surface of the blades was sprayed matt black.

What is still missing is the white stripe separating the bottom of the red areas from the bluish-grey and matt black areas of the blades. The paint job did not make it in time before the Christmas pause of the Tuesday Club, so the painting will be delayed until the spring of 2025.

The donated German Hoffmann Rosenheim propeller had thus acquired the external appearance of the propeller used in the Snoopy, except for the white stripe.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation to English by Hannu Mononen.

New plexiglass windows for the Snoopy's cockpit

Tiistai 17.12.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The experimental aircraft Snoopy (OH-XEA), under restoration in the Tuesday Club, has plexiglass windows on the doors of the left- and right-hand sides of the cockpit. They have been preserved, but turned dim, yellow, and scratched. Therefore, they will be replaced. The original ones are of polycarbonate plexiglass, to be used also in the new ones.

Photo by Esko Keskinen.

We decided to test assembling the original dim glasses in place, to find out how they were fastened, thinking about buying and assembling new plexiglasses. For attaching the glasses, there are threaded brackets in the fuselage frame of the cockpit, into which the plexiglasses are fastened with screws.

When the original plexiglasses were fitted in place it was noticed that the holes for attachment screws no longer matched everywhere with the holes in the brackets of the fuselage framework. The plexiglasses had somewhat changed their form and shrunk over time. Thus, in many places, new holes had to be drilled or existing holes had to be enlarged to match the plexiglass holes with those in the brackets of the fuselage framework.

When attaching the plexiglasses with screws into the brackets had started, it was observed that the threads in the brackets no more worked in all of them. Therefore, into all of the bracket holes for the plexiglass on the sides of the cockpit and the doors, new threads were made with a tap for 4 mm screws. These screws were purchased and then the old plexiglasses could be mounted into place. Now, the test-fitted old plexiglasses were detached, and marks matching with their attachment brackets were made onto them with a felt-tip pen, for drilling holes into the new plexiglasses. 

New plexiglasses were bought from an Etra shop, where they were cut ready into the shape of the old ones. The old plexiglasses had the thickness of a good millimeter only, and were thus rather flimsy. Therefore, we decided to buy a little bit stronger material and ended up with the thickness of 2 mm. The sawed edges of the new plexiglasses were ground smooth.

Holes were made into the new plexiglasses for attachment screws, according to the original ones. The old plexiglass was placed on top of the new one, and the spots for holes were marked with felt tip pen onto the new one. With a column drill, 4 mm holes were drilled. When screwing the plexiglasses in place was started, it was noticed that the 4 mm holes were slightly tight, and the plexiglass could not be pressed smoothly against the fuselage framework. The holes were widened, and thereafter the plexiglasses of the cockpit door and the left-hand side wall could well be pressed against the fuselage framework. The new plexiglass windows had been assembled. For the time being, the protective films on the plexiglass surfaces will be left in place.

The cockpit windscreen has also been plexiglass, but is has not been preserved. Thus, it must be made. It is a single pane, the same sheet of plexiglass in the front as well as the parts bent to the sides. The bent plexiglass has been attached to its brackets in the fuselage framework through the screw holes by its edge.

To make a new windscreen, we plan to proceed by first making a cardboard model of it. Accordingly, we will get a sheet of plexiglass that will be bent in shape for attachment. It will also be made of 2 mm polycarbonate, bent into the angular shape of the Snoopy’s windscreen by heating.

A large sheet of cardboard was cut and started to be formed into the place of the windscreen, cutting it smaller piece by piece, until it corresponded with the shape and size of the original windscreen visible in photos of the Snoopy. It was checked that the edges of the cardboard will settle in line with the windscreen attachment brackets of the fuselage. There are still adjustments to be made until, based on the spread-out cardboard template, a sheet of polycarbonate plexiglass of its shape will be purchased and bent into its final shape.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation to English by Hannu Mononen.

Painting the Snoopy's rudder decals and taping them

Perjantai 13.12.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

Unlike the other control surfaces, Snoopy’s rudder is covered with fabric. The other surfaces are covered with plywood. The paint on the rudder fabric was badly crackled and also tatty. That’s why we had to cover the rudder again. The new covering and the tightening with lacquer have been dealt with in the blog of May 6.

After the tightening with lacquer (shrinking dope) the fabric surface of the rudder was painted with the blue greyish Isotrol -oil paint the same shade as the original. The painting was done with a hand brush, because the Isotrol paint leaves a very smooth surface when painted with a hand brush.

Before painting the paint was filtered through a funnel to eliminate any lumps. The surfaces were painted twice over, after which the surface of the covering fabric was even and semi glossy. It was time to paint the speed lines and symbols the rudder once had.

On each side of the rudder there are red speed lines cutting diagonally across the surface. In addition, on the left-hand side of the upper part of the rudder there was number 2, and on the right-hand side a profile of a bird with spread wings. Did Esko and Ari Hietanen have a raven in mind?

Both the bird profile and the number 2 were copied on transparent paper from the old fabric that was detached from the rudder. From the paper they were transferred on to black contact plastic and cut off with scissors. Originally the symbols had been of black contact plastic, i.e. they weren’t painted on the rudder fabric.

First the red speed lines were made on the recently painted rudder. They were made exactly according to the originals, or copied from the covering fabric detached from the rudder. The shape of the speed line was bordered on the surface of the rudder with masking tape. The bordered area was painted with red Isotrol- paint. It’s of the same shade as the original. When the speed line on the left-hand side had dried, a similar line was painted on the right-hand side of the rudder.

Now the previously copied symbols, the bird figure and the number 2 could be fastened into place, number 2 on the left hand-side of the rudder and the bird figure on the right-hand side. The rudder restoration was ready.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation to English by Matti Liuskallio.

Painting of the repairs in the plywood cover of the Snoopy

Tiistai 10.12.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

After we had patched the holes in the plywood-covered wings, ailerons, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator, those patched spots were ready for painting.

We do not intend to paint all through the patched parts of the Snoopy, but the patches only. This is because in restoration we strive to preserve the original paint surface whenever it is possible. The painted surfaces of the Snoopy’s wings and tailplane still remain in excellent condition. That became evident when prior to fixing the damaged spots we cleaned the plywood surfaces from the dust and dirt that had accumulated during decades. The washed surfaces, most likely painted with Miranol-paint at the time, looked like newly painted.

The painted and repaired areas were re-painted with Isotrol oil paint that produces a paint surface similar to Miranol. It only required first defining the original blue-grey hue for toning the Isotrol paint. This created us a little problem.

Even though all the plywood-covered parts of the Snoopy had been painted simultaneously with the same blue-grey paint, those paint surfaces had become covered with patina or faded at a different pace during the decades. There were distinct differences of hue between painted parts of the Snoopy. Thus, the hue in the colour chart that matched for example the colour of the left wing, did not match with the elevator. We had to settle for a compromise in defining the hue, by choosing one that in average corresponded with the Snoopy’s patina-covered painted plywood surfaces. The formula for this hue became +CT101 3,2GR/0,5 l KAAVA, and the Isotrol paint was toned accordingly.

The paint job was done with a brush, Isotrol paint being brush friendly. The paint covers extremely well already at the first time, and it smoothens also extremely well when applied with a brush, forming an even, semi-glossy surface. After the paint has dried, the covered surfaces can still be polished with mineral spirits.

The paint job was done inside a painting tent or a tent-like cover beside the restoration workshop of the Finnish Aviation Museum. It can be warmed and has effective ventilation. Thus the patchwork of plywood surfaces on both wings, ailerons, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator received a beautiful blue-gray Isotrol coating in the painting tent.

After the painting, there was still some work to be done on the Snoopy’s left wing, because patching the plywood cover of the wing had destroyed some of the letters in the registration marking OH-XEA. The letters O and H had to be complemented. As the marking had been made on the wing using black contact plastic, we decided to do the same.

Black contact plastic was purchased. The lines were marked with sticky tape on the wing to define the location and size of the missing parts. Thereafter, the missing parts of the letters O and H were drawn on transparent rice paper to make a template for them. Placing the rice paper template on top of the black contact plastic, a carpet knife was used to cut through the rice paper the missing part of each letter. These letter parts were then precisely placed to complete the damaged O and H, which succeeded perfectly. Even by a close scrutiny, the seam between the original letter and its complementary part cannot be detected.

The restoration work of the plywood-covered wings, ailerons, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator has thus been completed.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation to English by Hannu Mononen.

A propeller for the Snoopy's engine

Maanantai 25.11.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The Aviation Museum Society’s donation, the OH-XEA Snoopy experimental aircraft, was without its Continental A 65 engine and the propeller. As far as we know, the engine and propeller had been given away, after the Snoopy’s flying days were over.

Photo by Esko Keskinen.

The problem of the missing Continental A 65 engine was solved when we were donated a damaged Continental engine of a plane that had crashed. It’s not airworthy, but it needn’t be, because the Snoopy won’t be restored to flying status. We’ll restore the engine looking complete and make the exhaust pipes, looking like those that were in the Snoopy’s Continental engine.

Photo by Juha Veijalainen.

We were also lucky about the missing propeller. We were donated a slightly damaged and struck off propeller, fitting the Continental A 65 engine. The wooden propeller is made by the German Hoffman Rosenheim works in 1986. One propeller tip is damaged. It’s both broken and has a dent in the leading edge.

The division between the six fastening bolts was exactly the same as in the propeller hub of the Continental A 65. The holes were, however, slightly smaller, so we drilled the holes with a column drilling machine to respond the to the fastening bolts of our Continental engine propeller hub. The compatibility was tested by fastening the propeller to the hub.

Because the propeller is mainly white, it doesn’t correspond to the Snoopy’s propeller in appearance. The Snoopy’s propeller tips were red. At the bottom of the red area there was a narrow white stripe. Otherwise the propeller frontside was blueish grey or the same colour as the aircraft itself. The backside of the propeller was, however, painted black between the white stripe and the hub.

We’ll repair and restore the propeller’s outer appearance like it was in the Snoopy. That’s why the markings and tapes were sanded off the surface of the donated propeller and anyway the propeller’s surface was rebuffed for the painting.

The crack in the other propeller tip and the dent in the leading edge had to be fixed before painting. We ended up fixing the tip crack with epoxy glue. So the crack was immersed in epoxy glue, after which it was pressed tight between two plastic plates with clamps. When the clamps were taken off after the glue had dried, the crack was well closed and the propeller tip was sanded smooth.

The dent in the propeller’s brass leading edge was first tried to straighten and then file smoother, but the metal turned out to be too hard to shape. So we decided to spackle the dent full with Lightweight Epoxy Filler. When the filler had been spread over the dent, the dent was covered with a plastic mould, shaped similar to the profile of the propeller leading edge. The mould was pressed with clamps to the leading edge.

After the filler had dried, the mould was taken off. It was noticed then that part of the filler hadn’t adhered properly to the dented area, but had come off with the mould. So we spackled the unsatisfactory part again, after which the leading edge dent became universally smooth. The propeller repairs had been accomplished and the priming of the propeller could be started.

Before starting the priming, the surfaces of the propeller were once more buffed lightly with sanding paper. The buffing dust was first wiped off with a dry cloth and finally with soft cloth immersed in a 50%/50% mixture of Sinol /water. The priming was done with a paint brush. As the paint, we had the same blue greyish Isotrol oil-based paint, that we used in painting the Snoopy’s wings, horizontal stabilizer and elevator plywood patches. The shade is the same blue greyish colour that was used on the Snoopy’s original surfaces. The priming will clearly show if the propeller surface will need any additional spackling. After the paint had dried out it was noticed that no more additional spackling or sanding was needed before the painting of the propeller to the scheme used in the Snoopys propeller.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation to English by Matti Liuskallio.

Refurbishing the Snoopy pilot's seat

Torstai 7.11.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The pilot’s seat of the Snoopy experimental aircraft, built by the brothers Hietanen from Turku, at the end of the 1960s, was moulded along the times. In the first version, the seat frame had a curved back support and a back rest of plywood, covered with fabric. Later the back rest became rectangular with an inset for the pilot’s parachute. The material of the back rest was changed at the same time from plywood to aluminium. With the inset in the back rest, the distance between the pilot and the control column could be increased, because the Snoopy’s seat isn’t adjustable. The parachute backpack worked as a padding for the pilot’s back.

Photo by Esko Keskinen.

The seat of the Snoopy, a donation to the Finnish Aviation Museum a few years back, consists of the back plate, side plates the shaped bottom plate and the case at the rear of the back rest. These parts have been riveted with pop-rivets to the steel tubes of the seat frame. A plywood plate, with a canvas-covered padding, attached with screws to the cockpit frame, forms the seat.

After tens of years in storage the Snoopy’s seat steel tube frame was rusty, like the fuselage frame, the aluminium parts of the seat were dirty and oxidized grey. The plywood seat plate with its padding had totally vanished.

To restore the seat, we started by detaching the aluminium parts fastened to the seat frame. They were detached by drilling away the pop-rivets that had fastened the aluminium parts to the frame.

After that we disassembled the seat frame of tubular structure, to be refurbished. We had our work cut out for us in doing that. We had to use a jack and a plastic mallet, before we were able to detach the frame parts from each other, because they were joined together with rust.

After separating the frame tubes, they were cleaned from rust to be painted in their original appearance. We did the cleaning by hand, using sandpaper of various grits and abrasive pads. We also did the same to clean the Snoopy’s fuselage frame tubes.

Because we’ll use Isotrol-lacquer to prime the seat frame, the tubes need not be sanded into clean metal. It suffices that the surface rust has been removed and that the surface of tubes feels smooth to touch. An Isotrol paint of the original shade will be painted on the Isotrol primer.

The dirty aluminium parts of the seat were cleaned with Fairy Power Spray agent. The Power Spray is a very efficient detergent for dirt and grease. You spray the agent on the surface of the part to be cleaned and leave it work for a few minutes.

After that the parts will be dried with a cloth or rinsed with water. In doing so we had the aluminium seat parts looking quite different, compared to when we detached them from the seat frame. The aluminium parts will still be buffed out before fastening them back to the restored and refitted seat frame.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

Cleaning the parts of the Snoopy?s Continental engine

Perjantai 1.11.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

As soon as parts had been detached from the Continental A 65 engine that we had received for the Snoopy (OH-XEA), originating from a plane destroyed in an accident, they were cleaned. Besides being physically damaged, the engine had also burnt. Unfortunately, many of its devices had been destroyed useless, so the missing parts also had to be searched for.

Photo by Erkki Rossi.

Small metal parts with little or no damage were cleaned from rust by bathing them 24 hours in 33 % solution of phosphoric acid. For example, the propeller hub, detached from the engine and dismantled into its parts, was all immersed into phosphoric acid.

When the acid starts working, foam will be forming on its surface. After a day and night, those propeller hub parts were taken out and carefully dried with fabric. As a result, the parts are rust-free, with dark grey clean surface. Even as such, the parts are fully usable.

However, we decided to blow the propeller hub parts with glass bead blasting to bright metal, to make them appear as brand new. One might ask, why not blast them straight away as rusty. We chose this approach to avoid contaminating of the glass blast media with rust enriching into it.

For aluminum engine parts with dirty surface, we chose another procedure. Aluminum parts that were dirty or blackened after burning, such as magnetos, were first cleaned of dirt and thereafter their surfaces glass bead blasted. Before the blasting, holes in the magnetos were plugged with wooden plugs to prevent the blast media from penetrating into the magneto. With the blasting, the magnetos got clean surfaces. Finally, the clean surfaces were treated with a solution of Sinol and water to prevent the oxidization of the surface.

Oily and dirty parts were initially washed in a basin dedicated to cleaning engine parts, with a handy brush that feeds washing liquid through a hose.

The washed parts were dried with pressurized air, aluminum parts then possibly treated with glass bead blasting and Sinol-water solution. This method was chosen e.g. for the aluminium distributor head cover.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Hannu Mononen.

Preliminary steps for covering the Ressu (Snoopy) fuselage frame

Sunnuntai 27.10.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The fuselage of the Snoopy experimental aircraft (OH-XEA) was covered with fabric. When Aviation Museum Society Finland received the Snoopy two years ago, the fuselage was totally stripped of covering fabric. Therefore, the fuselage will be covered at the Tuesday Club as it originally was. Luckily we have some good photographs of the Snoopy at our disposal to guide us with the covering. So to work.

The whole fuselage frame of steel tube has been cleaned of rust during the autumn, given a layer of lacquer and finally painted with red Isotrol- paint. These jobs have been necessary for starting the work on the fuselage frame. These include the installing of the long wooden battens along the sides and upper surfaces of the fuselage frame and the partial covering of the fuselage frame steel tubes with fabric strip.

Metal brackets with 10 mm slots have been welded to the structure of both sides and the upper surface. Thin wooden battens have been fastened to these brackets along the whole of the rear fuselage. The purpose of the battens is to keep the covering canvas separated from the fuselage frame trusswork. Otherwise the metal would start to “eat” into the canvas, especially when rusting.

In order to prevent direct contact between the canvas and the longitudinal steel tubes at the upper and lower corners of the fuselage frame, cloth strip had been tied around the tubes. There were still remains of these strips left in the tail and vertical stabilizer of the Snoopy.

Next we started making the long protecting wooden battens. We found suitable material to make the battens at the restoration workshop’s woodware storage at the Finnish Aviation Museum. The battens were cut to measure and shaped to fit the brackets. At fitting the battens the brackets were squeezed tight to them. The batten was locked into place with small nails. Finally the battens that were fastened to the brackets, were protected with nitrocellulose lacquer.

Along with making the battens, we started covering the steel tubes of the fuselage frame with 20 mm wide cotton strip or tape. We bought that from Eurokangas. When the shop assistant queried what we needed it for, we said that it was used for covering a museum aircraft. The assistant was surprised but interested, so we briefed her in more detail about the purpose of the fabric strip. We must have been the first customer of this sort.

The ribbon was wound around the fuselage tubes to form a solid surface of fabric around the tubes. We wound the fabric strip to overlap the edge by about 5 mm. The stripping thus became solid, without any metal surface being visible. On the lower surface of the fuselage, without the wooden batten, we wound the strip on the lower part trusswork as well.

All the strip-covered surfaces were finally treated with nitrocellulose lacquer, which simultaneously glues the strip onto the tubes and later functions as an adhesive surface for the canvas covering. The covering canvas is tightened with that very same nitrocellulose lacquer.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

The surface treatment of Snoopy?s fuselage framework

Perjantai 25.10.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The fuselage framework of the experimental aircraft OH-XEA “Snoopy”, currently being restored  by the Tuesday Club of Aviation Museum Society Finland, was without its fabric covering when the Society received its ownership. When and why the fabric covering had been stripped off, is not known. Anyway, Snoopy had been stored without its covering for a long time, as its fuselage framework, welded of 13 mm steel tube, was in such thick rust.

The first stage of restoring the fuselage framework was to clean it from rust. Cleaning the steel tubes until clear metal appears is however unnecessary, as removing the superficial rust will suffice. When the tube surface feels very smooth to your fingers, it is clean enough. For the purpose, we used sandpapers of various grades as well as scrubber sponge. The grinding dust was wiped away carefully with rags of fabric and solution mixed of Sinol spirits and water.

Not grinding the fuselage framework until clear metal shows is because for priming the tubes for their surface paint, we use the clear Isotrol lacquer (Klarlack Grund). This lacquer penetrates through possible rust to the surface of the tube, stopping the rusting process. The surface can then be painted directly on the lacquer.

After the whole fuselage framework was cleaned from surface rust, we then treated it by a thin coat of Isotrol, covering fully the steel tubes and other metal parts and giving the tubes a nice shiny surface.

After the lacquer had dried, the fuselage framework was painted with Isoqaurd Panzer, an alkyd oil paint for metal. Originally in the 1960’s, the fuselage framework had been painted with red Ferrex anti-rust paint, still visible as residues in the tubes. Simulating the red Ferrex, the Isoquard paint was tuned to the same tone of red. An exception was the landing gear that was painted with black Isoquard, according to its original black paint.

The fuselage framework surface treatment is now done.  The restoration work of Snoopy’s fuselage will next proceed with the cockpit, as well as measures priming the fabric covering of the fuselage.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Hannu Mononen.

Making the engine cowlings for the Snoopy started with cardboard templates

Maanantai 30.9.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

OH-XEA Ressu (Snoopy) experimental aircraft from the 1960s that we are restoring, was equipped with a Continental A 65 engine. To replace the Snoopy’s lost engine we received, as a donation, a similar engine. The engine cowlings have vanished during the decades as well. So they’ll have to be made anew.

Photo by Esko Keskinen.

From the photographs we have at our disposal the size and form of the cowlings come out very well. The cowling is two partite. The larger, upper cowling, covers the engine from above and the smaller one covers the front part of the engine. The cowlings have been made of sheet aluminium, so that’s what we’ll be using too, utilizing 1 mm thick aluminium sheet. The fact that the original cowling rack fastened to the engine, has survived, will facilitate the making of the cowlings.

The constructing of the cowlings was started by cleaning the rusty cowling rack and painting it with black Isotrol paint. Black, because the original black paint was still faintly to be seen. The freshly painted rack was fastened to the Continental engine donated to us. The first phase to make the cowlings proper, was to make patterns or templates out of cardboard to fit above the rack. According to the cardboard templates aluminium blanks will be cut to be moulded to their final form.

Making the templates was started with the upper cowling. The template was made out two pieces of cardboard cut from a roll. First the tentatively cut left-hand side was fastened to the pegs in the protective rack. After that the same procedure was repeated with the right-hand piece of the template, after which the left and right-hand halves of the template were taped together. The united template of the cowling was modified by cutting and taping extra pieces to reach the final shape of the Snoopy’s cowling.

At this stage the making of the cowling template, covering the front end of the engine, was commenced. A piece of cardboard cut from the roll was bent against the front of the engine. The piece was gradually cut to form and the cardboard was attached to the pegs in the rack. By cutting suitable extra pieces of cardboard to the front cowling it was united with the upper cowling.

Thus, like a patchwork quilt, the cardboard template was built around the Snoopy’s Continental engine prior to making the aluminium cowling. The next stage will be to transform the shape of the cardboard template into aluminium sheets.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

Continental A 65-8 engine for Ressu "Snoopy"

Sunnuntai 29.9.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The OH-XEA “ Snoopy” experimental aircraft, built by the Hietanen brothers from Turku in the 1960s, now under restoration at the Tuesday Club, had a Continental A 65 engine. Before the Snoopy it was in the Piper Cub aircraft of the Turku Flying Club. The engine on the Snoopy hasn’t survived, and there is no knowledge about its fate. So we started to ask around whether a surplus engine was to be found somewhere. We could do with quite a dilapidated engine, since we weren’t restoring the Snoopy to an airworthy condition.

Photo by Esko Keskinen (1969).

Our query was successful, as we were offered the Continental A 65-8 engine of the PIK-11 “Tumppu” (OH-YMD) single-seat sport aircraft that had crashed in Mikkeli on 7 August 1999. The engine was damaged and burned in the accident. However, it could be refurbished to look externally intact, to be attached to the nose of Snoopy.

The miserable condition of the engine had been worsened by its exposure of several years to the mercy of the weather, thus having heavily rusted through. To start he refurbishment of this engine in the Tuesday Club, we fetched it from Tampere in the boot of a Skoda Octavia.  

Our purpose is neither to repair the Continental engine into working condition nor to restore the airworthiness of Snoopy. To refurbish the engine, we will dismantle it to pieces as fully as possible, then after cleaning and fixing those, the engine will be re-assembled and attached to the nose of Snoopy.

All parts of this damaged Continental are not remaining, as some of them were destroyed in the crash. However, we hope to find or to get substitute parts for the missing ones later on. We also welcome any parts rejected in repairing and servicing Continental engines.

Dismantling of the engine was started outdoors at the Finnish Aviation Museum by detaching the badly damaged engine mount and the lower oil sump, which were still attached to the engine. At the hub of the propeller, the burnt propeller stem remained. After the nuts of the hub bolts were loosened, the propeller torso could be detached.

Next the remaining left-hand side exhaust pipe, spark plugs, both magnetos attached to the timing gear cover, the cover itself and the sprockets under it were removed. The lid of the oil pump under the timing gear cover was opened and the pump sprockets were taken out to be cleaned.

Photo by Esko Rossi.

Dismantling the engine was continued at the Museum’s restoration shop. The engine was fastened to a trestle, where the engine could be turned around its longitudinal axis, like in a barbeque. This greatly helped the handling of the engine. Now we detached the valve rods of the rocker arms and thereafter the rocker axles, after which the rocker arms came off the cylinder head. It became clear that the valves didn’t budge an inch. We tried to make them move and loosen them by dissolving with antirust agents.

Also the propeller hub was stuck firmly to the crankshaft. To dislodge the hub for cleaning, we applied various antirust and lubricant agents, but the propeller hub just wouldn’t budge. We gave some time for the antirust agent to work and finally managed to get the propeller hub out with a puller.

Only the cylinders remained in the engine block. We wanted to get them unfastened, too, to facilitate blasting their surfaces clean when separated. We were increasingly worried whether the pistons inside were rusted too tightly onto the walls for the cylinders to be taken loose. Well, we can at least give them a go, as they say, and that’s what we decided to do.

We turned the nuts on the mounting pins open and tried if the pistons would budge. No go. We then poured white spirit into the cylinders through the plug holes, to see if it would squeeze between the pistons and cylinder walls, and mobilize the stuck pistons enough to detach the cylinders. So far, we haven’t succeeded in this, “but we shall never surrender” to quote Sir Winston Churchill.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

Covering of Ressu's (Snoopy) rudder

Maanantai 6.5.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

When the preliminary tasks concerning the covering of the experimental aircraft Hietanen OH-XEA rudder had been done, the proper covering could be commenced. The rudder covering is done with cotton fabric meant for covering aircraft. The covering will be done the same way it had originally been done in the 1960s.

The covering got started by setting the metal-framed rudder on the fabric, which was spread on the table. The edge of the fabric was wrapped around the right-hand side metal tube of the leading edge and sewed onto it.  The sewing was done with thin cotton thread, using a suitable curved or hooked needle.

After the fabric had been sewn to the leading edge right-hand tube, the rudder was turned over on the table, so that the metal frame of the rudder was left under the fabric. The fabric that was attached to the right-hand leading edge, was drawn over the leading edge and left-hand side to the trailing edge the of the rudder, where the lapel of the fabric was left hanging over the table edge.

A metal bar was attached to the hem of the fabric hanging over the table edge. With the aid of the bar the fabric, resting on the left-hand side of the rudder, was tightened. At the top and bottom edges of the rudder the lapels of the fabric were tightened with small clamps to the edge of the table. When the fabric was tightened this way, the water tightening of the fabric was started. The fabric was soaked through with boiled water. When drying, the fabric shrinks a little. The proper tightening of the covering fabric will be done after the water tightening with nitrocellulose lacquer.

The tightening lacquering of aircraft covering fabrics is carried out in a process with several phases. The tightening lacquering is started with a 25 % thinned nitrocellulose lacquer. From that the process continues with intermittent sanding to 50, 75,100 -% nitro lacquer. After each phase the fabric is sanded free of the fuzz brought to the surface by the lacquer. From phase to phase the covering fabric will shrink more and more. The end result is a covering fabric tight as a drum head. The sufficient degree of tightening is easy to verify by tapping the surface. It’s customary to pigment or colour red the lacquer with iron oxide powder. This will help to recognize which area has been dealt with the lacquer and which not.

When the water-soaked fabric on the left-hand side of Ressu’s rudder had dried, 25 % thinned NC-Speed nitrocellulose lacquer was applied on the surface of the fabric. As a thinner NC-Speeds’s own Thinner-8 was used. The lacquer was tinted red with red iron oxide powder. After the lacquer had dried, the weights were detached and the rudder was turned around, after which the unlacquered side of covering fabric was drawn tightly under the right-hand side of the rudder. The lapel of the fabric was sewn to the leading edge of the right-hand side metal tube, i.e. the same, where the lapel of the fabric had been sewn in the first place. The covering fabric was now around the rudder like a bag.

Now the right-hand side fabric of the rudder in its turn was water-soaked. After that this side, too, was lacquered with 25% NC-Speed tightening lacquer. After the lacquer had been dried, the rudder’s lower edge, triangular shaped in cross section, was covered by sewing the lapels of the fabric onto the tubes in the rudder’s lower edge.

The tightening of the covering fabric continued with applying a second layer of 25 % lacquer on the rudder surfaces. Because the fabric didn’t start to tighten in the manner we had hoped, the rudder was lacquered a third time over with 25% lacquer. From this point on we advanced in stages to three times applied 50% and twice applied 75% NC Speed lacquering. In this manner a sufficient level of tightness was achieved, so that the fabric strips protecting the stiches of the covering fabric at the edges of the rudder can be fastened. The protecting strips will be glued to the leading, upper, and bottom edges of the rudder. No strip will be needed at the trailing edge because there’s no seam in the fabric there. Of course we could glue a strip there, too, because it would make it more resilient.

The protective strips were cut off the same covering fabric with which the rudder was covered.

The cutting was done with serrated zig-zag scissors. The serrated edge of the protective strip will stick better to its base, i.e. the lacquered surface of the covering fabric compared to the straight edge.

The protective strips were glued to the rudder with 75% nitrocellulose lacquer. First the area of the protective strip was lacquered, after which the strip was pressed onto the wet lacquer. The strip was applied with lacquer so that it became thoroughly soaked with lacquer. The strip was pressed against is base and brushing away air pockets or bubbles from under the strip. At the same time it was made certain that the serrated edges were tightly glued to the surface of the covering fabric.

After the strips had dried, their surfaces were sanded smooth paying attention especially to the serrated edges. The lacquering and sanding were repeated three times, after which the protective strips and especially their serrated edges were worked so smooth, that feeling with your finger gave you no sensation of the strip edge on the surface of the covering fabric.

After fastening the protective strips, the whole rudder was lacquered once with 100% nitrocellulose NC Speed lacquer. The covering fabric of the rudder had now reached the stage where it was as tight as a drum head and thus ready for painting. According to Ressu’s original colour scheme it will be light bluish grey.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

The Ressu (Snoopy) rudder covering preliminary work assignments

Sunnuntai 21.4.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The IMY Tuesday club has continued its work with the Snoopy (Ressu).

Planned and built by the Hietanen Brothers from Turku, the mixed structure experimental aircraft Ressu from the 1960s is next in line for the rudder’s canvas covered steel tube structure to be restored.

For the restoration the rudder was detached from the fuselage. The fabric covering was in a fragile shape, and the paint finish of the canvas badly crackeled. On the left-hand side the covering is fairly intact, but on the right-hand side a large piece of covering is missing on the lower edge. From this unexpected opening it could be seen that the covering canvas had been sewn onto the rudder frame outer tubes only, but not onto the cross tubes. The outer ring metal tubes had been covered with 20 mm wide cotton edging ribbon, by winding it the tightly along the tube.  This was a common way to avoid the covering fabric to be attached to form a direct contact with metal. The fabric, that was sewn to the metal structure, had been tightened drum tight with nitrocellulose lacquer, after which the surface had received a light blue coat of paint. Finally the rudder had been treated with red speed stripes, a black number 2 and a bird figure.

Because the Ressu’s rudder covering fabric was in a bad shape and partly broken, we decided to cover it completely anew, complying the old manner of doing it, however. The old covering fabric had to be detached from the steel frame of the rudder by cutting it off with a knife, because the fabric had glued itself tightly to the edging ribbons around the tubes. After detaching the covering fabric, the edge ribbons around the metal tubes were also removed.

The red stripes of the rudder’s covering fabric and the left-hand side black number two and the right-hand side black bird were copied on transparent rice paper. After that the bird and the number were transferred onto sturdy cardboard to wait for the final transfer of these symbols onto black contact plastic, and their fixing onto the surface of the new covering fabric.

The work with the rudder’s metal structure was continued with doing away with the rust on the tube surfaces. Luckily the tubes weren’t badly rusted or corroded. The rust was sanded off with sanding paper, however, so that the tubes weren’t ground to pure metal. The transparent Isotrol-lacquer can be applied as primer even though the surface is still a bit rusty. The shielding cover of the Isotrol- lacquer will stop the rusting process. During the sanding it had been noticed that the rudder had originally been painted red. The paint had most probably been the red Ferrex, used widely in the 1960s to stop rusting.

The rudder frame structure was primed thinly with the transparent Isotrol -lacquer. Owing to the lacquer, the tube surfaces came out beautifully clear and the red paint applied on the surfaces rose up even more gloriously. After a light buffing, a layer of red Isotol paint was applied on the bright Isotrol lacquer, emulating the original red surface paint.

When the rudder frame had dried, we started to cover the steel tubes by winding 20 mm wide cotton edging ribbon around the steel tubes. Thus we’ll prevent, according to the original concept, the covering fabric being in direct contact with the surface of the steel tubes. By hurrying slowly we managed to wrap the cotton ribbon around the outer tubes of the frame. Ressu’s rudder in now ready to begin the fabric covering proper.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

Ressu's fuselage frame moved from Lemu to Vantaa

Tiistai 9.4.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

On Thursday April 4th, the Tuesday Club task force set off towards Lemu in the Turku region to fetch the OH-XEA “Ressu” (“Snoopy”) fuselage frame to Finnish Aviation Museum to be restored by the Tuesday Club. The OH-XEA is an experimental aircraft, designed and built in the late 1960s by brothers Hietanen, Esko and Ari. Since last autumn we have been working on the restoration of Ressu’s horizontal stabilizer, elevator, rudder, and wing struts. This work will be ready soon and we could pick up the Ressu’s fuselage frame from Lemu to be restored.

The Ressu fuselage, stripped entirely of its fabric covering, has been stored in the hall of Martti Mattila, an aviation enthusiast from Lemu. Last autumn we fetched the Ressu’s wings and tail parts from the same place. On our way to Lemu we made a detour via Turku Airport, to Caravelle “Bluebird”, which is on display there. In Helsinki we had picked up a Super Caravelle First-Class double seat frame, which we left to the Caravelle. The aim is to build four rows of seats in the “Bluebird” cabin and an adapted group of First-Class seats. From the Airport we continued to Lemu, where we arrived soon after noon.

Photo by Martti Mattila.

Martti Mattila had already prepared the Ressu fuselage frame for pick up by fastening two wheels with pneumatic tyres, borrowed from a ride-on lawn mower, on the ends of the landing gear axle and by moving the fuselage frame outside the hall. Due to the wheels the fuselage frame was easy to move. The lawn mower wheels are exactly the suitable size for Ressu. Before the fuselage fame was moved next to the trailer to be loaded, the pick-up team posed for a group photo.

Photo by Matti Kainulainen.

When the rather light fuselage frame was lifted on the trailer, we noticed that the landing gear with its wheels was too wide to fit inside the trailer sides. We solved the problem by unfastening the wheels and the landing gear fitted just nicely inside the trailer sides, and the fuselage frame rested on the trailer floor on its wheel flanges.

Photo by Matti Kainulainen.

We fastened the fuselage frame on the trailer with the nose of the aircraft facing forward. The trailer we had at our disposal was long enough to hold almost the whole length of the Ressu’s fuselage frame. The tail reached just slightly over the tailgate. The fuselage frame was secured tightly on the trailer, front and aft, using cargo straps. We topped up our cargo by adding a security banner on the tail. We also loaded the rest of the Ressu stuff from Mattila’s hall, such as the cockpit plexiglass windows and the seat belts. Many thanks to Martti Mattila for accommodating Ressu and its parts in his hall since last June.

Photo by Matti Kainulainen.

We spent some time with Martti Mattila, listening to him talking about his ongoing aircraft engine project. Based on what we heard, we can say that Mattila is a person with multiple skills when it comes to aircraft engines and aircraft in general. He has designed and built an aircraft and he also owns an airworthy engine-Lerche.

It was time to head back to Vantaa and the Finnish Aviation Museum, where we arrived late in the afternoon. On the museum yard we unfastened the cargo straps from Ressu’s fuselage frame and reassembled the wheels on the landing gear. Then we lifted the fuselage frame from the trailer on the asphalt-covered museum yard and pushed it on its wheels in front of the restoration workshop. As the Ressu’s fuselage frame will remain outside for the time being, we wrapped a tarpaulin around it to protect it from rain.

The Ressu’s fuselage frame is now ready to face the restoration procedure of the Tuesday Club. The first actual work item will be to clean the rusty frame tubes of the fuselage frame, stripped of its fabric covering. Then the tubes will be painted with protective Isotrol paint.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Erja Reinikainen.

Damages in the Ressu (Snoopy) plywood covering repaired

Tiistai 12.3.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The restoration of the experimental aircraft (OH-XEA) “Ressu” has so far concentrated on the work with repairing the holes and damages in the plywood covering of the wing halves, ailerons, horizontal stabilizer, and the elevator. This job has now been finished as far as patching goes.

There were about twenty holes and damaged areas in the plywood covering. Part of them being tiny pinpricks, but some were damages measuring tens of centimetres. As patching material, 0,9 mm aircraft plywood was used. To patch small holes, Ressu’s original plywood with a coating of paint was used. We obtained it in connection with clearing the large damaged areas in the wing.

In patching the holes in the Ressu plywood covering, we followed the same proven method throughout. In this blog the patching of a largish damage on the lower surface of the left-hand wing will be presented as an example.

A hole, or an area of a larger damage, was sawn open to a square or rectangular shape. In sawing, a “Kugihiki”, or a so-called Japanese saw was used, which is an excellent tool for sawing thin plywood. Supporting battens were glued under the sawn edges, so that about 1 cm protruded from the inside of the opening. The plywood patch to cover the opening will be glued on these supporting battens.

For gluing the supporting battens and the plywood patches, moisture resistant Erikeeper Plus or Casco Outdoor glue for wood was used. Before gluing the support battens, the protective lacquer was ground off the edges of the underside of the covering plywood. Thus the glue sticks better on the underside of the covering plywood. The support battens were pressed onto the edges of the underside covering plywood with small clamps. Work was also in progress with other holes in the wings, simultaneously with this large opening underside the left-hand side wing.

After the glue had dried, a sheet of thin paper was fastened over the whole opening to be patched. The plywood edges of the plywood opening were “smudged” with a pencil so that it became visible on the paper, thus producing an image of the edge line of the opening. The paper was cut along the now visible opening edge in the plywood. So we had a model to cut the right size of a patch. The paper was superimposed on a sheet of plywood and, hey presto, after this model a plywood patch we needed was cut out of the sheet.

The cutout piece of plywood was fitted in place on the support battens. We marked with arrows the places where the plywood patch still needed filing at the edges, to get the patch press itself in a butt-joint manner against the edges of the opening. When the plywood was in place, glue was spread on the support battens, and the plywood was pressed against the battens.

The gluing of the plywood patch was secured by putting a sturdy plywood sheet on the patch and iron weights piled on it. At the lowest a sheet of foam rubber was placed to distribute the weight evenly.

Before laying the weights, a layer of protective plastic was spread over the patch, to prevent extra glue from seeping off the seams of the plywood patch and possibly sticking to the foam rubber sheet. When both the foam rubber sheet and the sturdy plywood sheet were in place, iron weights were piled on the plywood sheet. We noticed after the glue had dried and the weights and the plywood sheet were removed, that the plywood patch had settled very neatly in place.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

Restoration of the Ressu (Snoopy) experimental aircraft?s wing struts and building the missing one

Lauantai 17.2.2024 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The restoration of the Ressu aircraft’s wing struts is completed. The aircraft was designed and built by the brothers Hietanen from Turku in the 1960s. Originally registered OH-HEA, the aircraft was registered as an experimental aircraft with the registration OH-XEA in 1969.

The wing halves of the high-wing Ressu are supported with two wing struts fastened to the fuselage lower edge. The front strut has been made of 50 mm and the rear strut of 20 mm thick steel tube. Both the front struts have remained, but only one of the rear struts. These three struts had been in storage inside the bare fuselage frame, which had no covering. The rusty struts were restored yellow according to the original paint scheme and the missing strut was built.

The restoration of the struts was started by taking them to be sand blasted at Taximo Oy in the Tattarisuo area in Helsinki. The sandblasted struts were dealt with a transparent anti-rust Isotrol-lacquer immediately after the sandblasting. The struts were primed with light grey Isotrol-paint of the shade RAL 7005. The light grey primer worked well for the yellow finishing paint of the struts.

As the yellow finishing paint we used at first the Tikkurila UNICA outdoor furniture paint with RAL 1023 as the shade. The yellow paint had poor coverage, which we knew in advance. To replace the UNICA, a corresponding yellow Isotrol paint of the similar shade was chosen for the second coat of paint. The yellow pigment of the Isotrol paint has a better coverage, which was noted when painting the struts. They were painted with the yellow Isotrol three times over, so

To make the missing rear strut, a 2,5 m long 22 mm thick steel tube was bought from Starkki hardware store. As a model for the building, a wing rear strut has survived. At both ends of the rear strut there’s a fixed bracket plate, with holes in it to fasten the strut to a bracket in the wing and the fuselage.

When we examined the photographs of Ressu at our disposal, we noticed that the lower end of the rear strut had been adjustable and not fixed, as was the case with the rear strut at our disposal. At the lower end of the strut can be seen a fork-like bracket with a threaded spindle. It was evident that the lower end of the rear strut had been changed to a fixed bracket. We decided to make the missing rear strut lower end adjustable, to correspond to the wing strut in the photograph. For this purpose we received a wing strut adjustable head used in a Super Cub.

The building of the missing wing rear strut was started by cutting the steel tube to the measure of the rear strut. First we made the lower end of the rear strut. We welded a suitable nut, which fitted the threaded spindle of the lower end of the tube and screwed the bracket in place.

We made the wing rear strut top end a fixed one, according to the strut we had at our disposal. The end of the tube was sawn at an acute angle. After that the bracket halves for both sides were cut out of 2 mm metal plate to be welded in place. They were welded to the top sides of the tube. After welding, the bracket was ground to its final shape. When a hole had been drilled for the strut fastening bolt, the new strut was structurally finished.

The new wing strut was primed with light grey Isotrol paint, the same way as the three original ones had earlier been dealt with. After the primer had dried it received a coat of yellow Isotrol paint. Thus we had restored the two original front wing struts and a rear strut of the Ressu-aircraft and built the missing wing rear strut

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Matti Liuskallio.

The plywood covering of OH-XEA Ressu is under repair

Perjantai 1.12.2023 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

Ressu’s restoration has progressed well in the Finnish Aviation Museum’s restoration workshop. The left wing, ailerons, vertical stabilizer, rudder, horizontal stabilizer, wing struts and tail wheel assembly are all now under work. Maybe we should actually be talking about repairs, because Ressu is mainly in good condition – except the fuselage and vertical stabilizer. Therefore we mainly concentrate on repairing the damages in the plywood covering.

The aim in repairing the damages in Ressu’s plywood covering is to save as much of the original plywood as possible. Where a blow has damaged the covering and the plywood is still a strip which is in one piece, we aim to repair the damage by gluing the strip back into place, using a supporting piece of new plywood. However, if the damage is an open hole, the plywood is shattered, or there is a piece of plywood missing, we will patch the damaged area with new plywood. The latter repairing method is introduced in this blog, using the repair of the damaged plywood covering on the elevator as an example. In all cases the glued seams of the patches are spackled and sanded, and the patched area is painted to the original hue of the painted surface so that the damaged area can hardly be noticed.

The plywood covering of Ressu’s elevator had one larger damaged area to be repaired. The damaged area is located on the elevator’s left-hand end, in the trailing edge side corner. Here the plywood covering has been broken on the elevator’s upper side and on its end. The plywood has broken in several places and parts of the covering are missing. We decided to patch the whole damaged area with new plywood.

First we removed the broken pieces of the covering plywood at the damaged point on the upper surface. Then we drew a rectangle around the damaged area and cut the plywood off along its edges, using a Dremel circular saw blade. This is how we created an opening for the patch on the upper surface. In a similar manner we cut a rectangular opening around the damaged area on the elevator’s end. Now the whole damaged area had been opened for patching.

The next step was to fasten supporting strips on the edges of the opening. The plywood patch will be supported by these strips when it is glued to cover the opening. Some of the supporting strips were glued with strengthening nails to the structure of the elevator. A strip was fastened also on the area where the patches on the elevators upper surface and on its end meet, i.e. at the upper edge of the elevator’s end.

Photo by Antti Hietala.

One of the supporting strips was glued on the underside of the plywood edge so that a little less than one centimetre of the strip was left outside the plywood covering’s edge. Before gluing, the old varnish was sanded away from the underside area of the plywood covering which was to be glued. The supporting strip was glued on the edge of the plywood covering and pressed tight on the plywood with small plastic clamps. The glue we used was Casco Outdoor wood glue.

 

Furthermore, a longitudinal supporting strip was fastened across the opening on the upper side. This strip is needed to support the plywood patch on the opening and make it slightly curved so that it follows the gently curving profile of the elevator’s upper surface.

When the supporting strips had been fastened, patch pieces of 1 mm aircraft plywood were cut for the openings on the upper side and the elevator’s end. The patches were fitted into place, shaping their edges until the patch edges pressed tightly against the sides of the opening.

Photo by Matti Kainulainen.

First the plywood patch was glued into place on the elevator’s end. The upper edge of the patch was pressed against the supporting strip with small clamps and the glued seam on the lower edge was secured with some small nails.

Photo by Matti Kainulainen.

Then the larger patch on the upper surface was glued into place. On the elevator’s leading edge side, the glue seam of the plywood patch could be pressed tight with ordinary clamps. A piece of plywood was placed between the clamps and the glue seam to distribute the pressure evenly on the seam. On the other side of the opening a metal weight was placed on the glued seam to press the plywood patch against the supporting strip.

The gluing of both plywood patches went well. The patch seams were spackled using Plastic Padding’s two-component Chemical Wood. The spackled seams and the whole newly patched area will be sanded before painting. The plywood patches will be painted later, together with several other plywood patches on Ressu’s surfaces.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise separately mentioned.

Translation by Erja Reinikainen.

The restoration of OH-XEA Ressu has been started

Tiistai 21.11.2023 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

As told in the previous blog, the parts of the OH-XEA, designed and built in the 1960s by the Hietanen brothers from Turku, will be restored by the Tuesday Club. The aircraft was nicknamed Ressu. Its wings, horizontal stabilizer, elevator, rudder, tail wheel assembly, wing struts and fuel tank have been brought to the Finnish Aviation Museum. We will concentrate on the restoration of its fuselage frame later. When the condition assessment and the restoration plan of the Ressu’s parts brought to the Museum had been completed, it was time to set to work.

The restoration of the wings was started by cleaning the plywood surfaces, painted blue. Both wings were brought to the restoration workshop of the Finnish Aviation Museum. We started the cleaning of the painted wing surfaces with a well-tried method: a magic sponge. Naturally the worst dust was first vacuumed off. The aileron was unfastened to be washed separately. The dust in the joint of the aileron and the wing was brushed off with a paint brush and vacuumed clean.

When using a magic sponge no cleaning agent is used. The tools you need are the magic sponge, a soft cloth, and half a bucket of water. The painted surface of the wing is cleaned by rubbing the surface of the wing, a small area at a time, with the magic sponge dipped in water and squeezed damp. With the soft cloth in the other hand the rubbed area is wiped at short intervals. The magic sponge removes the dirt from the wing surface, and it is wiped off with the cloth, which is rinsed in the bucket. There were also splashes of red paint on Ressu’s wings. Even they could be removed with the magic sponge. The rubbing with the magic sponge does not damage the painted surface unless excessive force is used.

The plywood covered horizontal stabilizer and elevator were treated in a similar manner. We managed to get their surfaces very clean too. We were satisfied to see that after the wash the greyish blue surfaces of the wings, horizontal stabilizer and elevator were as if newly painted. We wonder whether they have been painted in the 1960s using durable Miranol enamel paint as the painted surface has been so well preserved.

For the rudder surfaces no washing was needed, but the covering fabric was removed from the metal frame of the rudder. The covering fabric needs to be completely replaced. A carpet knife was used when removing the fabric. We could see that a strip of fabric had been spun around the outer edges of the frame. This strip protects the fabric which covers the metal rudder frame. On the other hand the covering fabric can be sewn on the fabric strip, but we could not tell whether this had been the case here. The fabric strip covering the edges of the metal frame was removed with a carpet knife. The rudder’s metal frame, stripped of the covering fabric, is now ready for rust removal and the surface treatment after it.

Photos by Reino Aatsalo.

Photo by Antti Hietala.

Three of the Ressu’s four wing struts have been preserved. The struts are surprisingly heavy, so they are probably made of ordinary steel tube. The surfaces of the struts have been painted yellow but are now covered in rust. The surfaces were sandblasted clean. Then the struts were treated with Isotrol varnish which prevents rust. Now the wing struts are waiting for their final surface treatment, and they will be painted yellow as in the original paint scheme.

Photo by Lassi Karivalo.

Photos by Osmo Väisänen.

The restoration of Ressu’s sprung tail wheel assembly was started by disassembling it. Even the tail wheel had to be disassembled so that we will have access to the wheel bearings, which are totally jammed. When the four bolts on the wheel rim had been unfastened, the rusty wheel halves could be wrenched apart by force. When the bearings were visible, we sprayed a lot of rust removing chemical in them and on the rusted surfaces of the wheel rim and left them “to mature” for a week. When a week had passed, we were able to clean the wheel rim halves quite well from rust and the bearings were preliminarily working. The following task will be to repair the sprung tail assembly.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo except if otherwise mentioned.

Translation by Erja Reinikainen.

The condition and damage assessment of Hietanen OH-XEA Ressu and its restoration plan

Sunnuntai 19.11.2023 - Tuesday Club member

Suomeksi

The Tuesday Club is starting the restoration of the Hietanen OH-XEA Ressu aircraft which has been stored at Lemu in the Turku area. The aircraft was built in the 1960s by Ari and Esko Hietanen from Turku. The first phase of the restoration will include the wings, horizontal stabilizer, elevator, rudder, tail wheel assembly, wing struts and fuel tank, which have been brought to the Finnish Aviation Museum from Lemu. The fuselage has no covering, but it remained at Lemu, and its turn will come later.

The first step in the renovation work is to assess the condition of the aircraft and its possible damage. Therefore we took the Ressu’s parts into the restoration workshop at the Finnish Aviation Museum and went carefully through the condition and damages of each part and made preliminary restoration plans for them.

We could see that the plywood covered surfaces of the wings, horizontal stabilizer and elevator are very dirty and have stains of red paint. The damages on the plywood covering are mainly small crushes or holes. However, on the underside of the left wing there is a large area around the registration mark where the plywood covering is badly broken. Or should we say has been intentionally broken – it certainly looks that way. The first phase in the restoration will be to clean the surfaces of the wings, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator and then to repair the damages on the plywood covering.

Ressu's rudder has metal structure and fabric covering, in similar manner as the tubular structure fuselage. The covering fabric is torn on one side of the rudder and a piece is missing.

The rusty metal frame of the rudder can be seen under the torn fabric. The metal frame will be cleaned and painted as it originally was. It seems that the frame has been painted with red Ferrex, the anti-rust paint which was commonly used in the 1960s. The red colour is visible under the rust. We will paint the frame using modern red Isotrol paint.

Finally the rudder will be covered with new fabric and painted pale blue, following the original paint scheme. Red stripes will be painted on both sides of the rudder, following the original look. Number 2 will be painted on the left side and a black bird figure on the right.

Ressu's tail assembly has metal structure and an air-filled tyre. The wheel bearings are completely stuck. We will try to repair the wheel into operating condition. The tail frame will be cleaned of rust and painted yellow, following the original paint scheme.

Ressu’s wings are supported with two wing struts, made of metal tube. Two of them are sturdier, fastened on the brackets on the wing’s front spar, and the two thinner ones are fastened on the brackets on the rear spar. We have both front struts but only one rear strut. The wing struts had been stored inside Ressu’s fuselage frame. The struts have been painted yellow but are now badly covered in rust. They will be sandblasted clean by a contractor and painted yellow as the original ones. We will make a new rear strut to replace the missing one.

The fuel tank is located at the root of the left wing, it has been lowered into place from the upper side of the wing. The fuel tank has dents, and they will be straightened. The fuel tank has had some kind of cap with a rubber seal, there are marks of it left on the wing as well as on the tank. The cap has disappeared. If we can find out what the cap has been like, we will make one. And if we can’t find what it has been like, a good alternative is to make a cap from e.g. 1,2 mm thick aircraft plywood.

The Hietanen brothers have obviously been planning to double the size of the 21-litre fuel tank. We can judge this from the fact that the wing rib next to the tank had already been removed and the wing’s plywood covering had been opened between the wing spars up to the following rib. We will, however, restore the wing structure to its original condition where there is only space between the wing root rib and the first rib for the original fuel tank. This means that the missing rib will have to be made and the opened plywood covering repaired.

Photos by Lassi Karivalo.

Translation by Erja Reinikainen.